Oeufs Au Lait, Creme Brulee's not-so-famous cousin

Good friend PY was wondering why I haven't been updating my blog as often. I'm still cooking on a near daily basis and enjoying plenty of good desserts every other day. But not every dish is worth documenting, I supposed. And then I have been busy writing other much more boring stuff.

Thought I'll introduce this perhaps lesser known French dessert. We all know crème brûlée. We all love crème brûlée. And we all like to order crème brûlée at our favourite French restaurant. I would imagine, as its lesser known cousin (or even twin brother), Oeufs Au Lait must feel extremely neglected.

Actually, crème brûlée has at least 2 not-so-famous cousins (or twin brothers, whichever you see it). The other being crème Catalane (Catalane is the region in Southwest France that borders Spain) and bears an even closer resemblance to crème brûlée. And it is widely served in restaurants in this region. It is as sinful as crème brûlée in terms of the number of egg yolks used, and has a more citrus taste than traditional vanilla flavoured crème brûlée. The difference lies in the cooking method. There is no baking in crème Catalane.

And don't ask me which of the creamy/eggy desserts is the most original or has been invented first. I'm sure the French haven't agreed on the answer yet.

As for Oeufs Au Lait, its name tells us what it is: eggs with milk. It tastes like a sweetened version of the Japanese steamed egg Chawamushi. And it may have less sugarly sins than crème brûlée.

So now we know French dessert is not all about crème brûlée even though it stills rank highly in my list of favourites.

And predictably, I like to refer to Camille's cookbook of French classic dishes to try out all these classic French desserts. Hmm...looking through the dessert pictures in this French cookbook, I suspect that besides crème Catalane and oeufs au lait, two other desserts -- blanc-manger au lait d'amandes and oeufs à la neige -- may also be possible distant cousins of our favourite crème brûlée.

Oeufs Au Lait
Makes two small ramekins (we did it on a day when we have only 1 egg left, feel free to increase the quantity proportionately)

130ml milk
1 egg
a few drops of vanilla essence
15g sugar (perhaps 1 teaspoon?)

Preheat oven at 150 degrees Celcius.

Add vanilla essence into the milk and boil. You may like to use vanilla beans instead. If using that, let the vanilla beans infuse for 5 minutes before removing the vanilla pod.

Whisk the egg(s) with sugar. Gradually add the hot milk while stirring. Pass the creamy egg mixture through a sieve into small ramekins.

Place the ramekins in a mould or tin and fill up with water to form a water bath. Bake in oven for about 30 minutes.

Serve cool. You may also make a caramelised sugar syrup and pour a thin layer to the oeufs au lait before serving.

Crumble of Pears and Dates

Hmmm....my food presentation skills are not doing justice to this tasty and easy to make crumble. Now it looks like some gluey fruits that has been messed around on a kid's plate.

Looks aside, it is a pretty light dessert after a heavy dinner, as the crumble pastry is just a sprinkle on the pear rather than a thick crust

The recipe is adapted from the Crumble cookbook by Martine Lizambard, published by Solar Editions. And it's so easy to adapt the portion size that I'm regurgitating the recipe based on memory.

Crumble of Pears and Dates
Serves two

2 pears (1 pear per person)
A few dried dates (Persian dates, not Chinese red dates, can be replaced with figs)
Some honey (about 1 tablespoon)
Roughly 1 spoon of butter (after adding my reduced quantity of butter, I regretted it as omitting the butter would make healthier dessert)

For the crumble:
30g flour (or 1 heap tablespoon)
15g cold butter
20g brown sugar (or about 1 tablespoon)
Sprinkle almond flakes or walnut pieces

Preheat oven at 200 degree Celcius.

Peel pear and quarter it. Put in a small pan with butter over low heat. Add honey. Cook for about 3-5 minutes.

Cut the dates into cubes. Mix into the pear mixture. Put everything into a baking tin.

Prepare the crumble by rubbing butter into the flour until all butter are evenly mixed into the flour. Add sugar and mix well.

Sprinkle the crumble over the pears. Sprinkle nuts over the crumble. Bake for about 20 minutes until the crumble is golden brown.

Nice and still easy Creme Brulee

It's been almost one year since I last attempted Crème Brûlée. Now I'm back with an improved version, even though I still use the same recipe. This is because I now have 2 not-so-secret weapons: real vanilla beans and blow torch. And each time I do it, I am reminded again of the simple steps in making this favourite French dessert.

We had bought vanilla pods with the remaining of our Tongan dollars at the airport when we were holidaying in the country. Despite my love for all things vanilla, I'm clueless as to how the real thing looks like and thankfully, youtube comes to my rescue to show me how to even open it!

As for the blow torch, we were actually shopping for electric toothbrush at Moore Wilson. Being rather put off by the hefty price tag of fancy electric toothbrushes, our attention were instead attracted by the colourful blow torch on display right next to the oral hygiene devices. Well, I guess anyone with a sweet tooth needs to work harder on keeping their pearly whites clean.

Anyway, to keep the long story short, we were happy to sacrifice our dental health in the name of holy good creme brulee.

Below is the recipe from Camille's French classic cookbook, slightly amended from my last post.

Crème Brûlée
makes 6 cups

1 whole egg
4 egg yolks
80g castor sugar
half vanilla pod or a few drops of vanilla essence
400ml liquid cream
brown sugar

If you're using vanilla beans, slit the pod lengthwise into two and scour the beans out from half the pod with the back of your knife. Check youtube if you're unsure. Add half the pod and the vanilla beans to the 400ml cream and heat over medium-low fire to infuse the vanilla flavour until the cream is just about to boil.

In case you're short of say 100ml cream (which we are always short of, as cream do not seem to come in 400ml packaging), top it up with milk. (Maybe that's my secret to making a lighter version of creme brulee...hmmm)

Set aside for 15 minutes. Preheat oven at 130 degree Celcius.

After that, pour over a sieve to remove the vanilla pod. Don't throw the vanilla pod away, dry it and keep it in a jar of sugar to make vanilla sugar.

Whisk the egg, egg yolks, castor sugar (if you're using vanilla essence, add it during this stage) together (just a manual balloon hand whisk will do), then add the cream in slowly until well blended.

Pour mixture over a sieve (to remove bubbles) into individual ramekins (coffee cups may work well). This quantity makes 6 cups.

Cook in preheated oven of 130C. The cups have to be placed in a tray of water to moderate actual heat going through and prevent the eggs from become omelettes.

Cooking time is about 40-45 minutes, but be sure the cream has gelled in the cups. What we do is shake our oven a little bit (or tilt the cups), and you'll also see the custard surface a little puffed up, indicating that the inside is cooked.

You also wouldn't want to overcook the custard. We cooked our perfect crème brûlée in 45 minutes in our fan-baked oven, but every oven is different, so some careful observation is necessary here. If still unsure, you may consider sacrificing one cup by piercing through the surface to check if it's cooked inside.

Put in fridge for 1 hour before serving. To serve, sprinkle generously brown sugar on top and grill in a very hot oven (say 200-250C for 5 minutes, watch carefully to avoid burning the top) for the surface to caramelise before serving, or better still, get a blow torch.

Camille has another suggestion which we have tried with half the batch of creme brulee with good results: leave the creme brulee to cool in the oven door open, and cool overnight. Then repeat the last step above.

Also, if you like to experiment with different flavours, just replace the vanilla beans with say lemon zest, coffee liqueur, almond essence....

Southeast Asian night 3 with tropical fruits

We had a fruity dinner of pineapple rice and papaya sago dessert. Serving the food in the hollowed out fruits is sure a fancy way to impress guests (in my case, my other half).

As for the recipe for making pineapple rice, I found that there are as many versions of it as there are for fried rice. So as usual, I cooked it according to the prevailing ingredients I had on hand, except for the precious pork floss specially imported from Singapore, and the pineapple, that was specially bought for the occasion.

I had referred to Baking Mum's recipe to help me begin and adjusted the ingredients and taste accordingly.

A close-up look at the papaya sago dessert. It definitely looks better than it tastes.

The original plan was to make mango sago dessert with some leftover sago from the sago gula melaka, but a last minute trip to the supermarket yielded no mangoes. So we switched quickly to plan B with papaya.

Then my plan B was also quite fluid. Finding no suitable recipes online that used both papaya and sago, I concocted my own. Scooped the flesh out of the whole papaya, pureed them, added milk to make some kind of milkshake, but then I didn't have enough milk, so it's somewhere between a milkshake and papaya puree consistency. Thankfully, the papaya was rather sweet, though we ended up adding some more sugar to it.

Southeast Asian night 2

Our Southeast Asian dinner night continued for the second day. Once I open a packet of coconut cream, I have to finish using it.

This time, no French dessert distraction. Just simply divine sago gula melaka. And we are very pleased to have come up with a more attractive way of serving up this Malay dessert. We have definitely made a giant improvement on the presentation part.

But we still ended up with making too much sago. 100g is too much even for 4 persons. Perhaps I should measure sago by tablespoons next time, and allocate at most 2 tablespoons per serving.

Main course comes in the form of Opor Ayam with Nasi Lemak, Enda's specialty which I misses every now and then.

And I have found tempeh here too, although at a much inflated price. It is a traditional Javanese food that binds fermented soybeans into a cake form and is very rich in protein. It is one of Enda's favourite snacks, and I used to snack on it with her when she's cooking dinner. Tempeh is very cheap in Singapore (and even cheaper in Indonesia), but here in New Zealand, it costs 6 times more, as it is found in organic grocery stores rather than Asian grocery shops.

Part 3 of my Southeast Asian night would be pineapple rice. The pineapple I bought last Sunday is still waiting to serve its gastronomical purpose.

Improvised blueberry charlotte

I have a little of all the key ingredients leftover from previous dessert experiments. They are not enough to make another cake or tart, but too precious to waste. So a blueberry charlotte is created out of no recipe. Which is the beauty of charlotte, since no cooking is involved. You just mix and match what you can find in your pantry or fridge and voilah! A satisfactory conclusion to a great dinner.

My improvised blueberry charlotte
Serves two

A handful of blueberries
2 tablespoon good quality berry jam (I used mixed berry jam)
100ml fresh cream
Sponge biscuits
1 spoon icing sugar (castor sugar will do too)
a few drops of vanilla essence

Remembering that these are mostly leftover ingredients, the quantity is not really precise and that important. Just use what you can find.

Mix the blueberries with jam over low fire for a few quick minutes, so that the jam softens and you kind of get a thick coulis. Leave to cool.

Whipped the cream with sugar and vanilla essence until it becomes creamy. To get perfect whipped cream, keep your mixing bowl and beater sticks in the freezer for 15 minutes before you start to whip it. And the cream is ready when it leaves a trail. Overwhipping it makes the cream becomes butter and buttermilk (which means it is not really wasted, just make it into butter for your breakfast).

Arrange the sponge biscuits together in the way you like in a dessert glass or bowl. Crush some small pieces to line the bottom of the glass. Spoon the whipped cream, followed by a spoon of the berry mixture. Put a few small pieces of biscuits, followed by another spoon of whipped cream. Topped with berry mixture.

If you like the sponge biscuits to be soft like cake, make a quick syrup out of jam and dip each biscuits briefly in the syrup before using them.

Leave in the fridge for about 4 hours before serving.

Balinese style satay with Tumeric Rice

We went to Tonga recently for holiday. If you don't know where's Tonga, you're not alone. We had to google to find that it is somewhere in the South Pacific, somewhere close to  Fiji and Samoa, not too far from the equator...but give me an unlabeled map of the world now, I still won't be able to tell the extremely tweeny islands of Tonga from those of Fiji or Cook or the likes or maybe even locate it in the vast ocean.

The South Pacific is a different tropical paradise from the one I have come from. The sea is always greener on the other side, so my friends from back home in sunny Singapore are green with envy about my trip. But one striking similarity is the abundance of coconut trees. There's definitely more coconut trees in tiny Tonga than there are in little Singapore. And so, the number one souvenir I brought back is not any of the beautiful handicrafts woven by the local women out of grass, but a coconut grater done by a village man. And the number one skill acquired by Rémi from the locals was how to open a coconut without making a big mess.

Yes, I'm still sore by the absence of freshly grated coconut in Wellington. But the grater I bought would only be useful if I mount it on a wooden bench. Even then, I still don't have the Tongan convenience of plucking a coconut from the tree whenever I need one. So up till now, the grater remains unused, and for making the satay, I conveniently substituted freshly grated coconut with dessicated coconut. Not quite the same, but for a satay deprived person, the taste buds are less picky.

Balinese style satay is different from the meat satay I'm used to in Singapore, mainly because it uses ground meat. I don't recall having it when I went to Bali years ago. As I have bought ground lamb meat by mistake, I decided to try the recipe I found in "Authentic Recipes from Indonesia" even though it is a recipe for chicken/duck satay.

Balinese style Satay
Makes about 10 sticks

About 250g ground chicken or duck (or in my case, I used lamb)
1 cup (100g) freshly grated coconut (I used dessicated coconut and added some coconut milk to hydrate the coconut flakes)
2 kaffir lime leaves, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon shaved palm sugar
some salt
10 bamboo skewers. The stem of lemongrass can be used as skewer too.

Spice Paste
2 candlenuts
1 cm fresh galangal, peeled and sliced
1 cm kencur root (another kind of ginger which I can't find and so left out)
1 cm tumeric, peeled and sliced, or half teaspoon ground tumeric
1 red finger-length chili, deseeded
3 shallots, peeled
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 clove
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
half teaspoon black pepper
pinch of ground nutmeg
half teaspoon dried shrimp paste
1 tablespoon oil

Make the spice paste by grinding everything except the oil into a smooth paste. Even though I've bought myself a blender now, I still like to use the pestle and mortar for making spice paste, as it helps to release the fragrance of all the spices.

Heat oil over medium heat and stir fry the ground spice paste for 3-5 minutes until fragrant. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

When cooled, mix the spice paste with ground meat and all the other ingredients (logically not the skewers). Set aside to marinate for 2 hours in the refrigerator.

If using the bamboo skewers, soak them in water for 4 hours before using. Press the meat mixture onto each skewer firmly to form a kebab. Repeat until all the meat mixture is used up.

Grill in preheated oven for about 3 minutes or more on each side, basting with the marinade, until cooked and the meat is browned but not burned.

Served with sambal kecap (sweet soy sauce sambal), made by combining sliced shallots, sliced red chillies and sweet Indonesian soy sauce (kecap manis). I used normal sambal chili sauce and they go well together too.

As a meal, serve with tumeric rice and another vegetables (like stir fried bean sprouts) and tempeh.

Tumeric rice
Serves two

1 cup long-grained rice, washed
1 level teaspoon tumeric powder (it's very overpowering, so always better to start with less than more and adjust to the taste you like the next time you cook)
1 onion, diced
1 cm piece ginger
1 star anise
2 cloves
3 cm piece cinnamon
1 pandan leaf

In a rice cooker, place all ingredients together. Add 1 and half cup water and switch on the rice cooker. Well, being a Chinese, who grow up on a daily diet of rice, an electric rice cooker is the most useful appliance in each household and I don't know any Singaporean family who doesn't own a rice cooker or cook rice over the stove.